After almost a year I bought a ticket at the gate and
entered Kasu Brahmananda Reddy National Park (KBR) for my morning
constitutional. The ticket permits me to walk along identified paths in a part
of KBR that is an unofficially designated visitor’s zone for recreational
walking. Otherwise, I walk daily in the beautifully landscaped KBR walkway owned
by the Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation’s (GHMC), which acts as a buffer
zone outside the park, and runs around its circumference.
KBR has always drawn me like a
thirsty camel to an oasis. It is a miraculous lung space of typical deccani greenery, in the midst of a
burgeoning city. As a natural sponge it soaks up rainwater, sequestering subterranean
aquifers and is the catchment for rills that recharge Banjara lake. As a
natural asset it is unparalleled by anything that the GHMC’s extended real
estate can boast of. A worthy rival would have been Hussain Sagar, but that has
been myopically compromised. It’s once sparkling waters, teeming with fish and
bird fauna have degenerated into a malodorously inert mega-cesspool that the corporation
still proclaims amongst the city’s jewels.
As I warmed into my stride, the quiddity
of the landscape began to sink in, for such areas allow you to unselfconsciously
meld into their naturalness. There is a becalming ambience intrinsic to
wilderness that enfolds you so preternaturally that you do not realize the sense
of wellbeing that begins to assuage you with each passing moment. To my mind
the sole reason for this is the absence of human despoliation, wherein lies the
ageless strength of such landscapes, and their ability to impart solace seamlessly
to the troubled.
Dozens of energetic walkers mill
around me, absorbing this therapeutic atmosphere. The pros and cons of the
rightness or otherwise of this pastime within KBR have been seesawed threadbare
by a strong lobby of petitioning walkers and a quasi-sympathetic defendant administration,
both having agreed to disagree—the law is an ass.
The contrapuntal logic of declaring
a national park, with all its legal restrictions, in the center of Hyderabad is
augmented by the APFD institutionalizing walker’s permits by selling annual
passes and daily entry tickets. People inundate the park and the concept of
carrying capacity goes for a toss. Everyone seems happy for all are ignoring
the issue of over-use. There’s always space till the surface tension implodes
and the forces that be fire-fight either to increase the number of paths, or
physically restrict the number of walkers—lest their enthusiasm trod the park
into a parade ground.
In the inevitable fallout of a
wilderness area being thrown open to public access, basic civic amenities like
paths, to prevent haphazard movement, and convenience areas, to avoid public
nuisance and misuse, are provided—so far, so good. The trouble starts when the
worthy citizenry wishes to see their surroundings improved. How can there be a path but no parallel hedgerow of
foliage or flowering plants? Why not create a small lawn in front of the public
convenience? What harm will some exotic flowering trees do? Who can tolerate
insipid open scrubland?
While I walk, a sense of uneasiness
begins to weigh down my footsteps. Something about my surroundings is out of
sync and I am unable to pin it down. I stop mid-stride when the culprit
suddenly hits me squarely between the eyes.
Flowering and foliage shrubs have
been planted as neat hedgerows all
along the sides of the walkways, a sore sight, no different from those hideous
hoardings silently screaming their merchandise at commuters of the city’s
roads. These saplings have been planted along all the walking trails in KBR. The icing on the cake, the grid of
pipes drip-irrigating these exotics! Patches of lawn are spread here and there,
and exotic flowering trees proliferate in studied sparseness. Change begins
with the first deviation, after which there is no controlling the snowball.
If these ‘improvements’ enhance the
beauty of the place, and consequently the pleasure of the perambulator, why am
I complaining? Why am I creating a mountain out of a molehill? Because I know
that no self-respecting forester, worth his roots, would have committed this sacrilege,
unless his hands were forced. And worse, because a perfect environment, adapted
to the vagaries of wind and water, is being stealthily modified into one that
will demand copious watering and extensive horticultural maintenance, all of
which require inputs from the state’s exchequer. And I am not even talking
about breaking the law that this abuse of the iconic KBR landscape entails. Have
we lost the concept of a sense of place, which ultimately flags our cultural
maturity?
Exotics have no place inside a
national park, neither in the eyes of the law, nor in the tenets of good
science. Those who encourage their proliferation in our ecosystems carelessly sow
the wind and depart, leaving future generations to reap the whirlwind. The
rampant spread of this virus that desires to change surroundings per whim and
fancy, can never be checked, for no single antibody strong enough to resist the
infection exists. Do we ever stop to ponder our commitment to the land? On the
one hand we uproot entire villages from our protected areas, and on the other,
surreptitiously introduce the silent scourge of invasive exotics and allow them
to proliferate inside. How can we, on
the one hand, ‘educate’ the translocated villager about the sanctity of an inviolable
wilderness protected by national decree, but on the other, unhesitatingly agree
to the uneducated whim of every interfering babu?
The genie of government machinery
serves all its masters—political, judicial, administrative—with alacrity and
with disdain, for the genie fears the righteous act, lest it be viewed as rebellious
insubordination, and result in pecuniary and socially humiliating repercussions.
When will we sit up and notice that
our mythical cycle of rebirth pales in the face of the daily tantric tango
between legal-loophole and law-breaker’s lout, allowing the potential of this
nation to be sucked into the drain of chalta-hai
mediocrity?
There is a stealthy anarchy that
stalks our streets, seeping under every door, leaching into every spirit,
breaking down every bastion of integrity and righteousness, fanned by those who
spawn it in the corridors of power, systematically planting seeds of that
miasmic alliance into the psyche of every Indian—who has begun to think he /
she is a law unto himself / herself.
Societies and nations succeed
either through the use of force, or through the implementation of public will:
not through lawlessness, not through fishing at legal-loopholes, not through
loutish behaviour. The maladies India faces can only be remedied by public will
that flowers at our threshold—the will to uproot lawlessness, to batten down
legal loopholes, and to resist loutish lawbreakers.
I so wish that the forester in
charge of KBR puts into practice what he knows best, persuading the ignorant
do-gooders to let well enough alone, and allow him to do his job.
3 comments:
Dear Aasheesh, Many, many moons ago I did some birding in the Delhi Ridge and I recall walking on a neat (too neat, actually) path that had some trimmed hedges. Mercifully, this path led to a lovely, shady pool that had natural vegetation.
We will readily uproot a tree and plant four trees who being exotic have no business to be there..
Aasheesh … So true. We are obsessed with cleanliness and un-natural aesthetics that our reason and rationality is clouded to an extent that Natural & Organic has become a misnomer today.
Further, the strange rules at K.B.R. Park are not conducive to birders since neither binoculars nor cameras are permitted inside causing disappointment.
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